Captain Brown's Experience
on board the barque
"Robert Hine."
Originally Printed in 1899.
Captain Brown's Experience
on board the barque
"Robert Hine."
It was in fine, clear weather that we left Liverpool
in the year 1873, bound for Arica and Mollendo with a general cargo. All went well until
we got within 100 miles of the Straits of Le
Maire, when we encountered a heavy gale of
wind from the south-east. The sea was running
very high and we shipped heavy water on deck.
We were on the port-tack with two lower topsails
and foretop-mast staysail set. At the commencement of the gale we should be about 70 miles from
any land.
We headed for the land, and when it was about
ten miles distant were obliged to wear ship and
put her on the starboard tack, for fear of being
driven on shore. No sooner had we gone on the
starboard tack than a heavy sea struck the vessel,
carrying away nearly all our bulwarks, rails, and
stanchions on the starboard side, also starting decks
and waterways, damaging the crew's houses, and
flooding the cabin. This would be about midnight.
At daybreak we found that our fore rigging had
been carried away and the vessel leaking. I decided
to run for Stanley Harbour, in the Falkland Islands,
to get my vessel repaired, as she was not in a fit
state to proceed on her voyage round Cape Horn.
In due time we arrived in Stanley Harbour - one of
the best I have ever visited. We found the inhabitants to be mostly Scotch carpenters; there would
be from 100 to 150 men in the place, but very few
ladies, I should say not more than six. Several of
the men asked me, should I visit their island again,
if I would kindly bring them some wives.
We were six weeks in repairing the ship, and then
we sailed again, enjoying fine weather and favourable wind until we reached Cape Horn, where we
encountered another south-east gale. I decided to
run under the land for shelter and go through
Nassau Straits, which we entered about 6 p.m., in
daylight. Having heard and read so much about
the Patagonian Savages, I did not anchor but kept
under weigh until the gale moderated.
Before entering Nassau Straits I gave orders for
all guns, cannon, and revolvers to be got ready for
action, as a precaution, in case the natives attempted
to board our ship. We had also a plentiful supply
of hot water ready, and the carpenter sharpened all
his axes, adzes, and other cutting instruments.
When all this had been done, I told Mrs. Brown she
had better retire to rest. Sleep was out of the
question for myself, as I was bound to be on deck
until the weather moderated and we were safely
through the Straits. But Mrs. Brown answered
"No; I am afraid of the savages; but if you
will make further preparation for keeping them from
boarding the ship I will go to my room." Then
she told me that in the storeroom there were a large
number of pickle and preserve bottles, which she
suggested should be broken and spread upon the
deck, in case the natives attacked us. This I
thought was an excellent plan and was not long in
getting the bottles broken, as suggested.
We were two nights and days in this place before
the gale moderated sufficiently to allow us to go
through into open water. Several times when we
were passing the small islands we heard the natives
shouting and screeching, but no boats came off to
us, for which we were very thankful. An American
vessel four years before this was not so fortunate, as
she lost half her crew fighting these men, who had
boarded her, In the fight twenty natives were killed
and the remainder jumped overboard and were
drowned.
We had a nice passage from False Cape Horn
to Arica and Mollendo. After discharging the
cargo and loading nitre for Hamburg, we set out for
Valparaiso. We had a pleasant and quick passage
to within fifty miles of Cape Horn. Then the
barometer commenced to fall very rapidly, and the
weather to the southward looked bad. I decided to
run for Good Success Bay. This would be about
two o'clock in the afternoon, and at six o'clock in
the evening we anchored.
Just before anchoring we noticed a small fore and
aft schooner lying at anchor, flying the English ensign. Thinking this craft might possibly be a pirate
schooner, I gave orders for all guns to be loaded
and made ready for action; at the same time I did
not forget to muster all the broken bottles ready for
spreading on the deck. When we had been to anchor
about two hours, a small boat with four men came
alongside from the schooner. The men looked
rather like foreigners, and seeing this I shouted for
them to keep away; they answered backed that they
were Missionaries. Seeing that there were only
four in number, I asked them to come on board,
which they did. It turned out in conversation that
they were from Stanley Harbour, Falkland Islands,
and bound for Beagle Channel Missionary Station,
and that their schooners name was "Allan Gardner,
No. 3," so called after the first Missionary to the
Patagonians. The schooner was loaded with beef,
potatoes, geese, and rabbits. We were kindly asked
if we would like some fresh meat and potatoes. I
answered "Yes," but asked them not to bring too
much, as I had very little money on board. They at
once very generously replied that the provisions
should be a free gift.
Before dark our visitors left the ship and returned
to their own schooner, promising to come again the
next morning. This they did, bringing with them
three quarters of fresh meat, six bags of potatoes,
twenty geese, and about the same number of rabbits,
altogether sufficient to last us a month. As they
had been so kind I offered to let them have whatever clothing they required for themselves, their
wives and families, at cost price. I had invested in
this clothing as a speculation when in Hamburg.
They were very pleased to accept my offer, and
bought of my stock to the extent of £65. Like
myself they had no money, but they gave me a
letter addressed to a gentleman in Liverpool, of
whom I was to receive payment.
I was then asked to accompany them on shore, as
they were anxious to learn for themselves what the
natives were like. The information that had
reached them was to the effect that the people were
very wild and treacherous - indeed, perfect savages.
I, however, declined the invitation, as the manner
in which I had seen the people dancing and
jumping like madmen around their fires all night
convinced me that it was wiser to remain aboard my
ship. I also suggested that the best plan for us
would be to heave up anchor and clear out. But
they were very anxious to land, as they desired to
learn whether they knew the language of the
natives or not. If they were ignorant of it, they
agreed not to land, With this I promised to accompany them, providing they did not object to me
taking two "bulldogs" with me. They looked
round, and asked where I kept the bulldogs?
I produced two revolvers, which they said I
could take on condition they were only used in
self-defence. We then went within a hundred
yards of the shore in the schooner's boat; from that
distance the Missionaries hailed the natives in the
language they knew, and received from one of the
tribe a response in the same tongue The knowledge that at least one man could understand them
was very pleasing to the Missionaries.
After a lot of talk the native was asked if it was
safe to land? Certainly the prospect was not very
inviting, as the people all appeared to be painted
ready for war. Not one of them had any clothing
on whatever. Men, women, and children were all
quite naked, although it was freezing hard and
exceedingly cold. The man answered back, that
under the circumstances it was perfectly safe to
land, but that it would not have been so had he
not been able to act as interpreter.
We then landed, and immediately the natives
came crowding around us; they commenced taking
hold of our clothes, shaking them vigorously - first
our coats, and then every article we had on. I
asked the Missionary the meaning of this, and he
said it was the way they had of expressing their
desire to become possessed of our clothing. As we
were shivering with cold, of course this was out of
the question. After this they sat around their fires,
first one and then another going close up to the
burning sticks to get warm.
I may say these people have no places of shelter
whatever, neither houses nor huts; their only comfort is a wood fire, and, what appeared very strange
to me, they always sat on that side of the fire where
the wind was blowing towards them. I asked the
reason of this, and was told, if they were sheltered
by the land it would be draughty and they would be
more liable to take cold.
During the whole of our visit I hardly took my
eyes off the natives, as I feared they might
treacherously attack us. Once I struck a match to
light my pipe, and in an instant they were all round
me, amazed at the sight; they had never seen a
match before, and when I gave them one or two
their delight was very great I thought what a good
plan it would be to bring all the matches we could
spare on shore and barter them for the bows and
spears they had, for whilst they carried these I
was very uneasy. This was done. For a box of
matches they gave me a bow and arrow, and in a
short time I had secured all their weapons, which
we placed on board so as to be out of their reach.
The Missionaries gave to the natives some meat
and a quantity of geese and rabbits; at the same
time I also gave them some salt meat and bread.
These people possessed a large oval pan which they
had found on an old wreck lying on the beach.
Up to the time of our visit they had been unable to
find a use for it. One of the Missionaries now told
them to till it with water, and promised to show
them how to cook the meat, &c. First he placed
all the geese and rabbits, the salt meat and the
bread, upon the beach, and then told the natives to
arrange themselves in families around the provisions.
He then proceeded to divide the meat and other
things, according to the number in each family,
cutting the meat up into portions and giving to
each a share. I asked him why he did this, and he
replied that if it was left with the natives to distribute they would arrange themselves for war, and
the strongest side would take the whole lot. After
he had apportioned the meat out, he put some in
the pan to cook, but it had not been there long
before the people were pulling it out and eating it.
So delighted were they with the meat that more was
place in the pan, together with a goose, two rabbits,
and a quantity of shell fish; these latter were put in
just as they had been killed - skins, feathers, and
all - and in the same state they were eaten, for all
that was thrown away alter the meal were a few
shells.
After this we took three of the natives on board
the "Robert Hine," for the purpose of showing
them over the ship. I went down into the cabin
first, our visitors following. The first, who was
some distance from the other two, on reaching the
room, almost the first thing he saw was a picture
of himself in the mirror upon the stern-post casing.
The shock to him was tremendous; he made a
terrific leap, nearly through the skylight, and
dropping down upon the floor fainted right away.
His friends would not venture any further, the
reason of their brothers fright being quite imcomprehensible to them, and they stood bewildered.
After we had brought the fellow round, they became
somewhat reassured, and then the fun commenced.
First one and then another would peep at the
mirror and then give a big jump backwards. This
was repeated for at least a dozen times. At length
the Missionary succeeded in explaining the mystery
to the man who acted as interpreter, and was at last
able to satisfy them that the persons whom they
saw were themselves and none others. Then the
sailors let them see through their quarters, and
when they came again on deck they were dressed in
some of the old clothes belonging to the crew.
They were all highly delighted with their costumes,
and their exhibitions of joy were amusing to watch.
But the greatest fun was after they had returned
ashore, indeed, it was a real "Jubilee" occasion
amongst them. The next day three or the
ladies were dressed in the sailors' clothes, and day
by day they were passed on to three fresh persons
until all had enjoyed the new sensation.
One day, about noon, we set off to climb the
mountains, so that we might see the view on the
other side. We had great difficulty in persuading
one of the natives to accompany us, as the people
suspected that we intended to kill our guide. The
ascent of the mountains was accomplished after a
deal of hard work, as the sides were very steep and
covered with small trees and shrubs. It was rather
late and getting quite dark when we came down,
and aboard the ship they were beginning to get
uneasy on our account; to warn us of the oncoming night they had commenced to pull the flags
up and down. We were a ragged-looking lot, our
clothes being almost torn off our backs; but
although I took particular notice of our native
guide, I could not see that he had a single scratch
about him, notwithstanding he had gone through
the bushes like a rabbit.
The next day we had moderate weather, and both
vessels sailed together, keeping in company for
about eight hours, after which we parted, the
Missionary schooner making for Beagle Channel
and the "Robert Hine" for Nassau Straits once
again.
When we got as far as False Cape Horn it commenced to blow, and we had to run back and anchor
in Orange Bay, where we laid three days and nights.
During our first day there we saw several natives
walking about, but none afterwards. We landed on
the second day and cut about twenty fine spars, of
which there were a large quantity. Orange Bay
afforded us splendid anchorage; it was well
sheltered from all winds. When the gale abated we
started again and passed safely through the Straits.
We made a splendid voyage from thence to Valparaiso, the time being only fourteen days, whereas
I have been as much as six weeks doing the same
passage.
After our ship had been reported to the Customs,
almost all the Captains and officers of the vessels in
Port came on board, to enquire what kind of places
Good Success and Orange Bays were; they were
also anxious to know what we thought of the
natives - whether in case of a wreck near their
shores they would kill and eat the unfortunate
sailors? I replied, that although I should not care
to be cast amongst them, yet at the same time I
would prefer landing before keeping to sea in an
open boat. One man especially, who, as Mate of
the "Peckforton Castle," came to me many times to
enquire my opinion of the natives, my reply to him
being the same as above. This poor fellow (Capt.
McAdams) got command of the "San Rafael," of
Liverpool, on his return home with the "Peckforton." He sailed in October, 1874, carrying a
cargo of coal for Valparaiso, and with a crew of
twenty-two hands. His wife also accompanied him.
On New Year's Day, 1875, after rounding Cape
Horn, they found the vessel on fire. They were
compelled to take to the three boats; the Captain,
his wife, and part of the crew were in the largest
boat, the officers and the remainder or the crew
being in the other two. During a fog the officers
lost sight of the Captain's boat and never saw it
again.
It transpired subsequently, however, that the Captain and his companions landed on a small island a
few miles from the mainland, hoping there to
attract the notice of some passing ship. But no
ship came, and after enduring dreadful hardships all
perished of starvation. During the time their little
stock of food lasted, cooking operations were conducted at night for fear of drawing the attention of
the natives on the mainland. It appears the natives
did see the blaze of their fire, but were too afraid to
venture a visit whilst the fires lasted. When these
had ceased they went to the island and found the
dead bodies of Captain and Mrs. McAdams and
crew of the boat. They returned and told the sad
story to the Missionaries, walking for that purpose
a distance of about 100 miles. The Missionaries at
once proceeded to the island in the "Allen Gardner"
and reverently buried the dead bodies.
The diary of Captain McAdams, which he had
kept until he could see to write ny longer, was also
found, and from its pages the dreadful fate of himself and his companions was learned.
The officers kept to sea in their boats, and after
tossing about for twenty-seven days were picked up
by a passenger ship from Melbourne, bound for
London.*
With reference to the Missionary schooner
frequently referred to in the above narrative, it
should be stated that she was called "Allen
Gardner" after two previous Missionary ships of the
same name, the former of which was so-called in
memory of the first Missionary to the Patagonians.
When this devoted man, in company with several
others, left England for South America, only sufficient water and stores were taken out to last one or
two months beyond the time time occupied in the
passage out. It was arranged before sailing that a
large brig-rigged vessel should carry out to them an
adequate stock of provisions, but, unfortunately,
this ship became disabled and was compelled to
return to England for repairs. When at length she
did arrive in South America, they found all the
Missionaries were dead, having been literally starved.
A short time after this another ship, the "2nd
Allen Gardner," went out with another band of
Christian Pioneers, but she too met with disaster.
When passing through Beagle Channel she ran
aground, and all her passengers and crew, with the
exception of one man, were cruelly killed by the
savage natives. The one man who escaped was
picked up by a passing vessel and lauded on the
Falkland Islands The natives also tried to set fire
to the ship, but failed to do so because of the
copper that was in her bottom. Some time afterwards a gunboat towed her off and took her to the
Falkland Islands, where I saw her.
The "3rd Allen Gardner" was the one I met in
Good Success Bay, loaded with provisions and
bound for Beagle Channel Missionary Station, as
mentioned earlier.
* For an account of their dreadful privations during the twenty-seven
days they were in the open boats, see The Wide, Wide World Magazine
for August and September, 1899.
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